EASTER CHICK

April 10, 2017, 3:13 am

EASTER is celebrated in so many different ways around the
globe! So, however you like to celebrate, it's always nice to
be able to create a decoration, or a gift to mark the event.

In the past, I have created projects for wire 'egg' baskets,
beaded egg pendants, rabbits, etc, etc... and to add to that repertoire,
here are some little wire CHICKS!

The kids or grandchildren will love to get involved in this,
especially the pom-pom-making from the wire coils!

STEP 1

Create 2 wire coils out of 0.4mm wire, each about
1"-2.5cm in length. You can use a Coiling Gizmo
for this, or a chunky knitting needle.

STEP 2

Stretch the coils out, retaining some curliwurliness!

STEP 3

Create a small circle at the ends of each length and begin
forming a small spiral around with the curly wire.

STEP 4

Wrap the rest of the curly wire around itself to form a
ball - just like you would bind a ball of string. You have now
created the 'head' and 'body' pom-pom for your chick!

STEP 5

To make the EYES and BEAK: choose 2 beads for
the eyes, cut about 3"-7.5cm of 0.4mm wire, plus
a short length of 0.8mm wire - which can be formed
into a 'V' shape. Hammer the very end of the 'V' shape
to work harden.

STEP 6

Using the tips of your round nosed pliers, create small
links at the very ends of the 'V' shape that sit at right
angles to the 'V'.

STEP 7

Take the 0.4mm wire (in Step 5) and loop it around one
of the links of the 'V'. Then pull it through tightly and
repeat through the second link.

STEP 8

With the wire threaded through both links, pull it tightly
and bend the projecting wires upwards (from the 'V').
Thread each projecting with an 'eye' bead.

STEP 9

Push the projecting wires (of the 'eye and beak' unit) into one
of the pom-poms and secure the ends within.

STEP 10

To make the 'legs': place your flat nosed pliers at the centre
of a short length of 0.8mm wire and bend the ends down on
either side. Place the unit on a steel block and hammer the ends
until they spread and flatten out. Cut about 4"-10cm of 0.4mm
wire and wrap one end around the centre of 'leg' unit, leaving
at least 3"-7.5cm protruding straight, in the opposite direction.

STEP 11

Push the protruding straight wire through the 'body' pom-pom,
followed by the 'head' pom-pom, and finally a bead (of a similar
colour to your wire).

STEP 12

Using your round nosed pliers, create a wrapped link at
the top end of the bead with the projecting wire

STEP 13

To make the WINGS: you can use 2 rice shaped beads on
0.4mm wire, threaded vertically through the body pom-pom.
(Alternatively, you can create beaded loops with small
seed beads on each side).

STEP 14

Secure and the second bead 'wing' on the opposite side
and adjust the shape and positioning.

Here's the Chick as an Easter Pendant!

Or, you could create a pair of Easter Chick earrings!

Or, suspend them from ribbons as decorations!

You can also create the wire pom-poms of the 'head'
and 'body' by rolling fine, coloured wire into balls
within your hands! As always, there are no rules
when it comes to creative wirework! Just use this idea
as inspiration and a stepping-stone to create your own
versions ...

Wishing you all a very
HAPPY EASTER!

↧

CATS!

April 22, 2017, 5:00 am

≫ Next: GOLD FISH

≪ Previous: EASTER CHICK

One of my passions is teaching wirework!
I think it's because wire is such a versatile material,
which means that I am always still learning and trying
to develop new designs and techniques. Through teaching,
I can share what I've learnt and evolve with new ideas...

Recently, I had the pleasure of teaching a lovely
South African lady called Alwine, who is currently living
in Switzerland. She flew over, having booked a weekend
workshop with me and shared her lifetime dream,
of one day ... setting up a Creative Retreat in Provence,
France, running jewellery classes! Such a wonderful
idea!

We covered many different wire jewellery techniques
over the two days and amongst the designs she was
keen to create, was a CAT design. Unfortunately, our time
ran out to fit that in, so I now dedicate this tutorial to:
Alwine!

CATS

After lots of experimentation (as shown above!), I decided that
the top right hand cat design had the most appeal. The head is
created separately to the body, which means you can make
cat 'head' earrings and and if desired, attach a 'body' for a brooch
or pendant. The design also works well secured onto a greetings
card, for any of your cat lover friends!

CATInstructions

1. I used approximately 6"-15cm of 0.8mm wire and placed
my round nosed pliers near to the centre of the length to
form 2 complete (eye) loops. Make sure the projecting wires
are straightened out on each side, angled in opposite directions.

2. Place flat nosed pliers next to the projecting wires (of the eye
loops) and bend back down on each side, to form the triangular
'ears'.

3. Place a cylindrical mandrel such as pen (I used my 8mm
bail maker pliers), under the 'eye' loops and curve the wire
around, back towards the top of the head to form the
'cheeks' on each side.

4. Place the tip of your round nosed pliers at the end of one of
the projecting wires and create a small link. Then, continue
to spiral the wire around this link until it's positioned at the
centre, forming the cat's 'nose'.

5. Thread the leftover projecting wire through the small central
link of the 'nose' spiral and form a second spiral (this one tight,
without a central hole).

6. Curl the spiral right up to the 'nose' (in step 4) and flatten it
over, so that both spirals sit on top of each other.

7. To form the 'whiskers', cut 3 lengths of 0.4mm wire (say about
2"-5cm each). For each length, thread the wire through the central
link of the 'nose' spiral (you might have to lift the flattened top
spiral to wiggle the wire through!). Secure the wire on each side
of the frame with a couple of wraps and then cut off any excess
and neaten the end.

8. Repeat the above, to create two more whiskers.

9. Using a dab of glue (E6000 is my favourite!) you can attach
seed beads, or flat back crystals over the 'eye' and 'nose' areas.

Above, are some earrings I created for my young nieces.
The ones on the right, are the same as the tutorial.
(The other cat silhouette earrings are made out of one piece of
wire with the centre crystal beads wired on with 0.4mm wire.)

If you wish to create a body for the cat, here are a couple of
shape suggestions:

Create a wire outline out of 0.8mm wire and secure to the
cat head, as shown.

If you wish to create a brooch with either design, I suggest that
you scrunch some 0.3mm wire and 'sew' this into the body
frame, so that the brooch pin finding cannot be seen.

The outline below, is another shape option.

You could even wire stripes to it with 0.4mm and colour

them in for a card design, or, weave them in with 0.4mm wire.

I hope that Alwine's request for a CAT design has also given

YOU some inspiration! It's not purrrrfect, however it

might trigger your own versions.

P.S. if you prefer to make a dog, you could always omit the whiskers!

↧

GOLD FISH

May 19, 2017, 6:11 am

≫ Next: SUMMER SUNCATCHER

≪ Previous: CATS!

Before I dive into the little fishy project that I've
prepared for you, I want to tell you about a few
other bits of flotsam and jetsam floating around
on my ocean bed ...

I'm currently creating pieces for an exhibition and sale,
that I partake in annually, for SOUTH EAST OPEN STUDIOS.
This is where artists in this area of Kent, open their own
studios (garages, sheds, spare rooms, conservatories, etc...)
to the public at large for the whole month of June. I like
collaborating with a group of artists, which means we
can be open all the time, show a varied and exciting range
of work from painting, sculpture, textiles, glass, printmaking
and of course, jewellery, plus we all enjoy a natter with tea and
cake thrown in! So, please do drop in, if you're in the area ...

But, if you in the London area, I will be running a one day
WireWork Masterclass at the LONDON JEWELLERY SCHOOL
on Monday 26th June from 10am-4.30pm.
Bookings are NOW being taken and spaces are limited, so I urge
you to book as soon as you can!

If you miss this opportunity, I do also run WORKSHOPS from my
own studio in Kent, so all is not lost!

In the meantime, here's a little tutorial to keep your wireworking
fingers busy and active. You can scale it up as a piece of home
decor, or create it into a necklace or earrings ... I will leave your
imagination to it's own devices ...

STEP 1

Depending on the size of the fish, cut a length of 0.8mm
wire - I used about 6"-15cm. Place your chain nosed pliers
just past the middle of the length and bend a kink. Re-position
the pliers next to the kink and bend back to form a 'v' indent.

STEP 2

Hold your pliers on one side of the 'v' indent and bring the
wire back around, so that the ends cross over (to form the
fish's tail).

STEP 3

Spend a little time reshaping the frame with your fingers
and if one of the tail ends is longer than the other, trim with
your wire cutters if necessary.

STEP 4

Cut a short length of 0.4mm wire and use this to securely
bind the cross-over area of the tail. (Optional: Leave about
an 1"-2.5cm of wire projecting on each side of the 0.4mm
wrap ...).

STEP 5

(Any leftover wire from the wrap, can be created into a small
spiral and flattened over the join.) Next, use your round nosed
pliers to form circles at the ends of the fish tail.

STEP 6

Keep spiralling the ends to form the tail. (Optional: Place the spiral
curls on the edge of your steel block and hammer to flatten
and work harden.)

STEP 7

Working from your 0.8mm spool of wire, create an open spiral
which fits into the centre area of the fish frame. Securely bind the
spiral into the frame at the top and bottom, using 0.4mm wire.

STEP 8

Once the spiral is secure and in place, cut off excess 0.8mm
wire, leaving just enough to create the 'eye'.

STEP 9

Using the tips of your round nosed pliers, curl the wire in
the opposite direction to the main 'body' spiral until it
touches the top of the frame, to form the 'eye'.

STEP 10

Secure a small seed bead into the eye loop with a short length
of 0.4mm wire (or, you can glue one in place!).

And there you have it! One fish down! Create these as pendants and
experiment with different ways of decorating the central sections:

Or, create a few more, to make a long statement necklace:

Try it silver ... copper, or coloured wires! Here's one that I made earlier
in silver with matching earrings:

Enjoy the fun of creating your own!
HAPPY WIRE -fish- MAKING

↧

SUMMER SUNCATCHER

July 3, 2017, 12:06 pm

≫ Next: MASTERING WIREWORK JEWELRY by Rachel Norris

≪ Previous: GOLD FISH

*SUNCATCHER* Tutorial
Since the beginning of human existence, civilisations have
worshiped the sun and it's not hard to understand why!

The sun is the star that dominates our solar system. It
produces energy in heat and light and has done so for many
millions of years, bringing life to so many living things.
It also generates our planet's weather, creating wind and the
earth's water cycle. So, with the current summer warmth
radiating all around us, I thought a Suncatcher project would
be perfect for this month!

I have designed this as a garden decoration, however,
you can always scale it down and adapt the design to
work as a jewellery pendant.

STEP 1

For a large scale piece, I used 2mm aluminium wire and
created a spiral to the size required.

STEP 2

Next, cut 4 pieces of the same wire, approximately 2"
longer than the spiral diameter.

STEP 3

Cut an arm's length of 0.4mm wire and use this to join
and secure 2 of the lengths at the centre, to form a cross.
Weave the wire up and around, like a figure of 8
(basket weave).

STEP 4

Add the third wire in, placing it across the middway point and
continue the basket weave, around all the wires, securing
them in place.

STEP 5

Finally, add the last wire and weave in, to form a 'star' shape,
using up all the remaining fine binding wire.
(*If the centre feels a bit raised and bulky, use the nylon mallet head
of your Whammer hammer to tap it down and flatten).

STEP 6

Place the centre of the spiral (from Step 1) at the centre of
the 'star' and secure in place with length of 0.4mm wire.

STEP 7

Attach a long arm's length of 0.4mm wire to the central point,
in readiness to secure in your chosen beads...

STEP 8

Thread your beads onto the central wire and secure around
the 'star' stems as you follow the spiral curvature framework...

STEP 9

Continue adding more beads and wire, until you have filled the
central gap within the spiral.

STEP 10

To keep both frames secured together, use the 0.4mm wire to
bind a bead at the outer edge of the spiral frame, onto the
radiating stem ...

STEP 11

Repeat (step 10) and secure beads to each of the stems.
Use your wire cutters to snip off and even out the ends of
the projecting 2mm aluminium wires.

STEP 12

Individually place each of the radiating stem tips on a
steel block and using the steel head of your Whammer,
flatten and spread until they mushroom out. (This is great
Whammer Therapy!!). You can then choose to pierce a hole
in the top and base stem, so that you can secure a hanging loop
and pendant drop. (I attached a sparkling heart shaped crystal,
however, a cascade of facated beads, a feather, a shard of glass,
anything you've got to hand, would all look equally decorative!)

Finally, you can decorate the centre by glueing in a glass nugget,
or wiring in a bead.

I am now enjoying my suncatcher in the
garden, where I can see it from my kitchen sink.
It definitely adds some positive sparkle to my
thoughts, as I'm washing the dishes and filling up
the kettle for tea and coffee refreshments ... !!

I would love to see your finished suncatcher's,
please do share your images on my FACEBOOK
page.

Happy Wireworking and Sun Catching!

↧

MASTERING WIREWORK JEWELRY by Rachel Norris

July 12, 2017, 3:22 am

≫ Next: PEBBLE CAGE TUTORIAL

≪ Previous: SUMMER SUNCATCHER

BOOK REVIEW
MASTERING WIREWORK
JEWELRY
by Rachel Norris
A complete GEM of a book!
Going back a few years and ever since I first spotted any
of Rachel's work, I have admired and loved her individual
style and the quality of craftswomanship in all her artistic
endeavours!

Rachel Norris has been a deserved winner of numerous accolades,
including 'Best Design' in 2012 and 'Design of the Year' in 2016
on JEWELLERY MAKER TV (on which she has been a guest
designer/demonstrator since 2011). She has also been voted
'Best Designer' in Beads and Beyond Magazine in 2015 and
(how many people can say this?!!) has had her work exhibited
at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London!

So, as a fellow maker and author and 'wire missionary', I thought
I must review her new book which has hit the limelight and
becomea best seller!

On first impression, the words that came to me when flicking
through Rachel's bookwere: 'beautiful', 'stunning', 'intricate'
and 'inspiring'!! It iscompletely evident from the layout of the
publication, thatshe has put her heart and soul into every project.
The designsare like timeless 'treasures', all themed around nature.

The publication is divided into 3 sections, beginning with an excellent
introduction to fundamental techniques, as well as tools and
materials, followed by the main content of 15 gorgeous projects
and brought to a conclusion with templates, a bibliography and
a list of suppliers.

Visually, the photography is wonderfully instructional and
beautifully clear and this is what makes this book a 'must have' for
anyaspiring wireworker, or even someone like me, who has been
dabbling and making for many years!

At first glance, you could feelthat Rachel's style might be too
intricate and meticulous for you, due to her love of weaving and
wrapping in all of her projects, however, youcan still use it as a
brilliant resource for inspiration and techniques! For instance,
talking personally, my jewellery style in comparison, is very honed
down and extremely simplistic, yet Rachel's clear step by step images,
still provide me with little triggers of insight as to how she accomplishes
her beautiful pieces, andgive me new challenges to aim for, especially
in her approach to setting stones andforming and shaping! I'm not
sure if I will ever have the patience that she has, but I can reallyenjoy
seeing the way she builds up her finished pieces and can admire
plenty of elements that will fuel new creativity in me!

Not only are the visual instructions excellent, she's also added
little tips and advice along the way ... as you pour over the book
you can almost feel you've got Rachel there, helping you along.
There is no doubt that you will learn something new if you
follow her clear step by step instructions, even if you choose to
put your own individual stamp on it!

To conclude, it is a complete 'gem of a book' and the title is spot
on! If you're a just starting out with wirework, you will learn and
comprehendso many basics in Rachel's excellent 'Mastering'
introduction. This should beread and studied in detail before jumping
straight into any of the projects.Whilst intermediate wireworkers,
will be inspired by the wealthand detail of her stunning projects,
ranging from a 'Spring Daisy Necklace','Egyptian Cat Brooch', 'Indian
Elephant Necklace'to'Running Horse Brooch', to name but a few ...!

I will definitely treasure this book, just as I admire her as a
individual artist and will share it within my workshops, as I think
it is a valuable resource when Iteach to inspire others on their
wirework journeys!

_______________________________________________

'Mastering Wirework Jewelry' by Rachel Norrisis published by:
GMC Publications Ltd
www.gmcbooks.com
ISBN 978 1 78494 331 8

It is also available through 'amazon.co.uk'
and'amazon.com'

↧

PEBBLE CAGE TUTORIAL

July 18, 2017, 5:58 am

≫ Next: DROP (dead gorgeous!) EARRINGS

≪ Previous: MASTERING WIREWORK JEWELRY by Rachel Norris

Are you heading off for a summer break? It could be
exotic, tropical, or local ... Wherever you go, look out
for pretty pebbles, sea glass, any interesting found object ...

This is what got me into jewellery making in the first
place. I just love the fact that you can turn a simple
everyday object into an aesthetic heirloom piece, which
has a story, or personal memory and meaning behind it!

If you can't get away to find your own treasure, you can
purchase polished pebbles and sea glass online.
In fact, for teaching purposes, I use a company called
BAKER ROSS, who do mixed packs for children's
creative activities! Alternatively, this project also works
beautifully for semi-precious stones and wires!

So, if you're sitting comfortably? I'll begin ...

STEP 1

Choose your 'stone' and decide which way you're going to
suspend it. Then, using a piece of string, measure around
it and add about 4" (10cm) to the overall length.

STEP 2

Once you have your string measurement, cut 3 pieces
of 0.8mm (20-gauge) wire to that length. Spend a little
time, straightening out the lengths through your fingers
(or if you have them, use nylon jawed pliers, or wire
straighteners).

STEP 3

Cut an arm's length of 0.4mm wire and use the end,
to bind a couple of times around the centre of 2 of
the 0.8mm wires.

STEP 4

Twist the wires open to separate, forming an 'X' shape
and begin weaving the thin wire around the 4 projecting
wires in a figure of '8' tight motion.

STEP 5

Place the third 0.8mm wire at the centre and secure that
in with the rest of the unit. Keep the weave tight and close,
pushing it into the centre.

STEP 6

Use up all your wire and neaten up the end. You should
now have a 'spider's web' effect at the centre of your wire
'star''.

STEP 7

Place the base of your chosen stone on top of the woven
area and fold all the projecting wires tightly around it.

STEP 8

Pinch the wires together at the top of the stone and using
the tips of your chain nosed pliers, bend a kink at the
centre top, where they meet.

STEP 9

Use one of the projecting wires to bind all the others
together at the very top of the stone.

STEP 10

Keep one wire straight and central for your suspension
link and bend the others at right angles in a star formation.
(*If some are much longer than others, you can always
trim them down to the same length).

STEP 11

Use your pliers to form spirals out of the side wires and
flatten these around the top wrap, keeping the central
stem projecting.

STEP 12

For extra decoration, you can thread a bead to the central stem
wire (to sit on top of the spirals), before making a double wrapped
loop with the projecting end.

STEP 13

Separate the top links out a little and now you're ready for
suspending it onto a cord, chain, ribbon, key ring finding, etc ...

STEP 14

For my suede cord, I created a couple of 0.8mm wire coils and
threaded these onto the ends, bringing the cord back into the wire
coils to form a loop. To secure and tighten in place, I pinched the
top and base of each of the coils (like a crimp).

STEP 15

I suspended beads with decorative wire headpins from the end
loops of the cord, which means the pendant can be tied and worn
at variable levels, keeping the back and front decorative!

Have a go with different wires and varied shapes stones!

It works well for irregular shapes of glass too!

Also, experiment with coloured wires to match your summer
outfits!

Or, take it one step further and add a tassel of beads to the end!

ENJOY YOUR SUMMER and
THIS SUMMERY PROJECT!
I will be back taking WORKSHOP BOOKINGS in
late August and September ...

↧

DROP (dead gorgeous!) EARRINGS

August 25, 2017, 1:02 pm

≫ Next: SEPTEMBER SAPPHIRE

≪ Previous: PEBBLE CAGE TUTORIAL

I have always loved earrings, and in my youth, I could
not even leave the house, without wearing a pair! I felt
naked without them!!
Way before I started my jewellery-making career, I was
fiddling with beads, headpins and ear hooks, creating my
own customised, colourful, statement ear decorations to
appease my creative soul!

About 8 years ago, I brought out a book packed with
earring designs, so if you ever need creative inspiration,
this is the perfect instructional handbook for those lobe designs:

CREATING BEADED AND WIRE EARRINGS
The book is available on 'amazon'
ISBN: 978-1-907563-23-2

Here's a sneak peak at some of my designs:

I just love the speed, whereby a spool of wire, a selection of beads,
plus a couple of pliers, can help you to produce such decorative pieces!

I have chosen the 'TEARDROP' EARRING project to share with you,
which is a very adaptable, versatile and elegant. I do hope you like it too!

For obvious copyright reasons, I can't use the image steps from my
book, so I have made a new version. But before you start thinking that
you need strong glasses, or that there's something wrong with your
eyesight ... I have to apologise for the quality of step images ... my
camera focus was out on some shots and I just didn't have time to 'shoot'
the whole project over again!

STEP 1

Begin by cutting 2 x 5" (12.5cm) lengths of 0.8mm wire.
Wrap the wires around a circular mandrel to create the
'teardrop' frames.

STEP 2

Using the tips of your chain nosed pliers, straighten one of the
extending wires to form the stem and wrap the other wire around
to secure. Cut off any excess and neaten the ends.

STEP 3

Cut 2 x 5" (12.5cm) of 0.8mm wire and thread each one with a
bead of your choice. Using your round nosed pliers to initially
form a loop at each end, grip the ends in your flat nosed
pliers, to create spirals, curling out in opposite directions.

STEP 4

Create 2 x jump rings out of 0.8mm wire.

STEP 5

Cut approximately 3" (7.5cm) of 0.4mm wire and secure
the top of the spiral into the centre space and top of the
'teardrop' frame. Then, continue wrapping the wire to
incorporate one of the jump rings. Use your flat nosed
pliers to flatten the wires down as you bind, so that they
don't bunch up. Repeat for the second earring.

STEP 6

(Do not adjust your set! Or, buy new glasses! Apologies
for the picture quality!). What I wanted to show you is
that you also need to bind the opposite end of the spiral
on each side of the frame.

STEP 7

Speeding fast forward ... Use the tips of your round nosed pliers,
to create small links at the end of the 'teardrop' frames. You can
suspend beads, or small wire spirals as extra, decorative dangles!

STEP 8

To create the EAR-HOOKS, cut 3.5" (9cm) of 0.8mm wire and
form small tight, centralised spirals at each end.

STEP 9

Place the tips of your round nosed pliers just by the
spirals and bend the wires back, in the opposite direction.

STEP 10

Using a pen or pencil as a circular mandrel, shape the
wire around to create the curved hook of the ear wire.

STEP 11

If the wire ends are slightly too long, or different lengths,
just trim with your wire cutters, then curve the ends outwards.
If the ends of the wires are rough, use a cup burr attached
to a pin vice, to smooth out and finish.

STEP 12

And finally ... you are ready to assemble! Thread the
ends of the ear hooks through the top suspension link
of your earrings ... and they are now ready to be publicly
aired and admired!

Feel free to experiment with this technique and style, to come up
with more variations and styles!

HAPPY WIRE WORKING!

↧

SEPTEMBER SAPPHIRE

September 8, 2017, 12:14 pm

≫ Next: 'DOODLE' CHARM BRACELET

≪ Previous: DROP (dead gorgeous!) EARRINGS

SAPPHIRE is the September birthstone and
known as the gem of Autumn.

If like me, your budget doesn't stretch to
be able to purchase the real stone, just find
a blue bead that matches!

In this month's project, I want to illustrate
how one simple bead can become a beautiful
focal piece for a necklace, with the addition
of a little bit of wire tweaking!

The materials you will need are: 0.8mm (20-gauge) wire, one
'sapphire' coloured bead and if desired, a few matching beads for
the chain and dangle drop (which is an optional extra!).

STEP 1

So, assemble: your bead, some wire and your usual tool kit ...

STEP 2

Start by threading your bead with wire and using your round
nosed pliers, create a double link at each end.

STEP 3

Cut a generous length of 0.8mm wire and secure this to one of
the double links.

STEP 4

Begin feeding the wire around the bead through the double loops,
leaving a slight gap (halo) around the bead.

STEP 5

Circumnavigate the wire around the bead about 3 times
(or more, if you feel so inclined!) and leave about 2"
(5cm) projecting at the end.

STEP 6

Place your round nosed pliers on the projecting wire (just by
the top of the bead) and form a top suspension loop.

STEP 7

Once the top loop is formed, spiral the remaining wire and
flatten against the top of the bead, just under the loop.

STEP 8

Now, the fun begins! Use the tips of your chain nosed pliers to
twist (tweak) the edges of the wires around the bead. You don't
need to go tweakingly mad, just 2 tweaks on either side will most
probably be enough!

STEP 9

Place any of the exposed wires at the edge of the frame on the
corner of your steel block and attempt to flatten and spread.
But, do not hammer any wires that cross over each other, that will
only weaken them ... And do watch your fingers! Ouch!!!

STEP 10

Once you're happy with the results, you can choose to suspend
with a 'dangle', a spiral, a tassel ... or, just leave it as it is ...

STEP 11

For an original handmade 'Stick Twist' chain, cut lengths of
0.8mm wire. Form small centered links with your round nosed pliers
at each end. Place each length on your block, and trying to
avoid your fingers (again!), as well as the links at each end, Whammer
WHACK-hammer the centre of each unit, to spread and flatten.

STEP 12

To form a twist in each of the units, hold each (link) end in your
flat nosed and chain nosed (or, 2 flat nosed pliers if you have them!).
TWIST a couple times whilst pulling! (Don't over twist, or you will
weaken the links).

And 'voila'! Assemble your stick-like Twist Links with some
chosen matching beads, together with jump rings to form a
pretty necklace chain.

Why not also create a pair of matching dangly earrings
using the Twist Links and some beads?

Experiment with other beads for different pendant designs!

Have fun with your wirey experimentations
and if you have any requests for specific
project tutorials, or techniques and would
like advice on your jewellery journeys ...
please feel to free to ask!
That's what this forum is for!

↧

'DOODLE' CHARM BRACELET

October 1, 2017, 4:04 am

≫ Next: HALLOWEEN INSPIRATION

≪ Previous: SEPTEMBER SAPPHIRE

The wearing of charms began as a form of talisman,
to ward off evil spirits, or bad fortune. Like lucky
mascots, medieval knights were said to have worn
charms for their protection before going into battle.

However the popularity of charm bracelets, as we
know them today, began in the 1950's, as gifts for
a girl's 16th or 18th birthday. The nature of these
bracelets, meant that new charms could be collected
and added and old ones could be removed and kept.
This meant that women could change and adapt their
bracelets on a daily basis to express their own mood
and thoughts for that day. That, and the fact that
you can personalise each piece, has retained their
immense popularity over the years!

You can of course, purchase beautiful cast charms from bead
suppliers, but you can also doodle with your wire to create your
own shapes and squiggles to make unique jewellery. If you have
any cut offs of 0.8mm wire, don't throw them away! Spiral, or
bend them into new forms, then tap them with a hammer on your
block and 'hey presto!' you've made your own unique
DOODLE CHARM!

Above, are a few I made earlier! All of these shapes are between
1cm-2cm, they need to be small and compact, so that they don't
fall apart, or catch on clothing when worn.

For the bracelet, you can use ready made chain, or you can create
your own figure of '8' chain links:

Stepped pliers are ideal for helping ensure that the links stay a
similar size. Then make some jump rings from the same wire spool.

Once you have created enough chain links, hammer them on your
block to work harden them.

Now, you're ready to connect the 'figure of 8' links to the jump
rings, alternating them as you go. Create this chain about one
inch (2.5cm) shorter than the overall length required (to allow
for the clasp).

You can create a 'T' bar clasp with the 0.8mm wire, the top being
a central cross-over link with spirals on each side, attached to a
short, straight, stem link. The 'eye' of the clasp is a wrapped loop.

Then it's just a question of attaching and suspending your
hand made 'doodle'charms and some beads from the handmade
chain...

One simple charm on a threaded bead nugget bracelet, can
also be very effective. (Above, you can see another Whammered
style "T-bar"clasp I often like to create for bracelets).

If you enjoy braiding and Kumihimo, attach your own doodle
charm through the cord. Here, I wanted to show how you could
accessories your wire charms by glueing a small cabochon stone,
(or flat-backed crystal).

And don't feel you have to stop at bracelets! Why not create wire
doodle charm necklaces? Here's my 'Belly Dancer' Necklace design!

GO ON ...
Get your pliers, some wire and
get DOODLING!

↧

HALLOWEEN INSPIRATION

October 18, 2017, 8:40 am

≫ Next: XMAS 'SPIRAL CONE' DECORATION

≪ Previous: 'DOODLE' CHARM BRACELET

Celebrated each year at the very end of this month,
October, Halloween has evolved into a day of activities
that kids really enjoy: such as trick-or-treating, carving
a pumpkin into a lantern as well as ghosts, witches and
ghouls costume parties!

If you're looking for design inspiration to create your own home
decorations and gifts out of wire and beads (plus spider charms),
there are plenty to find online and below are a few tutorials that
I have taught over the years that I thought I would share with you ...

So, without further ado ... BOO!

Enjoy my HALLOWEEN DESIGN GALLERY!


Bat Pendants


Cobweb Pendant

Dead Tree of Life Pendant


Bad Nightmare Dreamcatcher Pendant


Spooky Spider

Must speed off on my broomstick now ... !!

↧

XMAS 'SPIRAL CONE' DECORATION

December 1, 2017, 8:55 am

≫ Next: Happy Xmas 'Star' Brooch

≪ Previous: HALLOWEEN INSPIRATION

I can't believe it's already the first day of December ...
The countdown to Christmas now begins! As a maker, I
have to admit that I have been creating wire and bead
decorations, running festive workshops and demonstrating
Xmas themed designs for a couple of months already, so
I'm starting to wear thin on the 'ho, ho, ho' momentum!

With that in mind, I thought I would share some of the
designs I have been teaching and demonstrating and this
year, the most popular and quickest make with first time
wireworkers is the 'Spiral Cone'. They look elegant on the
tree, or hung in a window and can be made in any scale with
any wire and beads.

For the ones I have made, I used 2mm red aluminium wire and
my usual tool kit of round, flat, chain nosed pliers, plus wire
cutters. I love using thicker gauge aluminium wires (1.5mm and
2mm) for a lot of home decor projects, as it's chunky and bold,
yet soft and easy to shape.

STEP ONE

Working from the end of a wire coil, begin creating
a spiral ...

STEP 2

The size of the spiral will determine the width of the
cone. I made mine around 4.5cm across.

STEP 3

Once you've made the large, tight spiral, cut it from the
coil, leaving a projecting tail of about 18cm (7").

STEP 4

Create an OPEN, similar size spiral with the projecting wire,
bringing it in towards and on top of the tight spiral.

STEP 5

Bring the 2 spirals together, so that the central holes
are aligned.

STEP 6

Lift the open spiral and stretch the tight spiral out,
so that it forms a tapered cone.

STEP 7

Measure and cut a length of 0.8mm wire that is
at least 5cm (2") longer than the overall spiral cone.
Create a circular link at one end.

STEP 8

Place a small bead on to the end of the wire (by the link)
and thread through the narrow end of the cone. Continue
to thread the wire with any chosen beads until the central
portion of the cone is filled ...

STEP 9

Feed the wire through the centre of the top (open spiral) and
fold it back down, like a lid. Add another bead (or more) onto
the projecting wire and create a link at the very top of the tapered
cone.

STEP 10

If you would like to suspend a wire dangle - you can create
a small tight spiral as above, and form a point, by placing
your chain nosed pliers near to the spiral ...

STEP 11

Bring the wire around to the top and form a suspension link.
You can place this on a steel block and using the dapping head
of your Whammer, hammer the spiral to form some texture
marks, which will help the unit to catch the light and sparkle!

STEP 12

And there you have it! Attach the dangle to the end and a
ribbon to the top and it's ready to hang!

You can create these with all sorts of dangles, coloured beads
and wires and here are a few more variations:

If you turn this the other way around, it could be suspended
as a spiral Christmas Tree! Or, you could make it as a table
decoration:

On a smaller scale and using the same technique,
take some 0.8mm silver wire to create jewellery pieces!

Have fun creating this design in whichever way you choose!
I hope this helps fuel your festive spirits!

↧

Happy Xmas 'Star' Brooch

December 15, 2017, 11:22 am

≫ Next: A FEAST of RINGS

≪ Previous: XMAS 'SPIRAL CONE' DECORATION

Tis the season to be sparkly!
Fa la la la la, lala la laaaaa!

As we rapidly approach this silly
festive season, I'm sure that you're
all busy making and buying bits for
your friends and family, so there's
not much time to spare ...

However, this simple brooch project could be
the perfect addition to your gifts, or, why not
make it for: yourself!

This spiral brooch base is now a perfect background
for securing ANY charm, or beaded decoration.
I have chosen to make a STAR for mine ...

You can create these Christmas brooches with other decorations
of your choice ...

Above is my "Holly" version.

And another, with pearls and crystals ...

WISHING YOU ALL, A WONDERFUL
FESTIVE CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY
HOLIDAYS UNTIL THE NEW YEAR!

↧

A FEAST of RINGS

January 10, 2018, 12:51 pm

≫ Next: SPIRAL HEARTS

≪ Previous: Happy Xmas 'Star' Brooch

Firstly HAPPY NEW YEAR to everyone reading this!
For a positive new beginning, I'm going to dedicate this post to
MAKING RINGS, because WIRE is finger-lickin' perfect for creating
them! With just one length, you can shape, bend and twist a unique
design in a matter of minutes! As well as, wire wrap and weave
something more delicate and intricate as an heirloom piece ...

Because they can be quick to make, it's a great starter project for
a beginner and if you haven't yet invested in a ring mandrel, (or
triblet) to shape and size your pieces, you can always improvise
with something else ... I've tried everything from a glue-stick,
lipstick case and chunky felt-pen!

Learning to make a solid shank (the circular finger base of the ring)
is a good beginning, as you can attach and secure any chosen focal
decoration to the front, such as a vintage button, beads or a wire
squiggle!

One of my favourite finger shanks, is the wrapped Whammered wire
one! It's strong, solid and can be created to any finger size. I call this
the : WHAM-BAM RING!
All you need is 0.8mm wire, round and chain nosed pliers,
cutters, a ring mandrel and a Whammer hammer (other hammers are
available!).

STEP 1

Begin by wrapping 0.8mm silver-plated wire about 5 to 6
times around a ring mandrel to the required finger size.
Cut from the spool, leaving a tail of around 8"-10". Use
the short cut end to wrap around all the coils, securing
them as one circular unit.

STEP 2

Take the long projecting end and use this to bind around
all the coils. Randomly wrapping in any fashion. Try to
keep the wrap as tight as possible (unless you want gaps
in your design ... which is another ring design entirely!).

STEP 3

Place the wrapped wire ring onto your mandrel, and using
the steel head of your Whammer (or, planishing hammer)
flatten, spread and widen the ring, compressing all
the wires together to form a solid band, that is your chosen
size.

STEP 4

And that's all there is to it!

STEP 5 (adding a bead)

You can now choose to secure anything to the front using
a length of 0.4mm wire. Above, I have secured an oval
purple bead ...

STEP 6

Once the bead is secured onto the shank with 0.4mm wire,
cut about 10" of 0.8mm wire and wrap this around the bead
edge to form a fake setting. You can choose to create a small
loop at one end of the wire, which can be flattened over
the face of the bead, whilst the other end can be tucked
in behind, or around the shank.

STEP 7

These bases can be secured with a variation of beads and
if you're making it to blend with a multi-coloured outfit,
why not pick the colours and use a selection of smaller
beads to sit within your 'nest' setting...

Talking of 'nest settings' ... leads me directly onto another
style of ring shank that I like to create. These are more
decorative and I call this technique the:
LOOPY LINK.

STEP 1

To work out how much wire is required: measure your finger size
(with a piece of string), double this length and add 2" to it.
Cut a length of 0.8mm wire to this measurement and place your
round nosed pliers at the centre. Cross the wires over to form
the first loop ...

STEP 2

Repeat and wrap a second loop in the same way, crossing the wires
around and over, extending out on opposite sides ...

STEP 3

And on and on, you go, forming a row of loops. Keep good tension
in the wire, or the loops will easily misshape. Work on, near to
the end ...

STEP 4

This is a fuzzy image,
but, it's to show how
you secure the end: by
wrapping one wire
around the other
(cut excess and neaten),
leaving a small
protruding tail piece ...

STEP 5

Shape the row of loops around a cylindrical mandrel and post
the tail piece through the last loop on the opposite side. Link
around with your round nosed pliers to secure into a circular shank.

STEP 6

Place the loopy band onto your ring mandrel and gently"stroke"
hammer to flatten, shape and temper. (Do not bash too hard, or
you will weaken the cross-over sections!).

STEP 7

You can now choose to decorate your ring with one bead, or several
small beads. I have chosen some semi-precious chip beads and
have used a length of 0.4mm wire to attach and secure them over the
join section of the loopy link shank.

STEP 8

Once all your beads are in place and secured with the 0.4mm wire,
cut about 10" of 0.8mm wire and use this to wrap around the outer
edge, forming a 'nest' setting, just like Step 6 of the Wham Bam Ring!

STEP 9

I recommend that you do the 'nest' wrapping when it's on the
ring mandrel, so that you can keep it shaped. Also, once you've
secured and tucked in the ends of the wire, place it back on the
mandrel for any last minute adjustments and final tweaks.

STEP 10

These rings are a fantastic way of using up small assorted
chip and crystal beads in a variety of coloured palettes.

For some instant gratification, you could also twist
any amount of wires together to form ring bases. This is great
if you have some 0.8mm/0.9mm coloured wires to hand!
I twist my wires using a hand drill and table vice, but you can
twist without any gadgets ... a wooden spoon on a door handle
will do! Here's an idea for a TWIST RING:

Steaming through the steps ...
(a) Begin by twisting your wires together to form a cable.
I have twisted 3 x 0.8mm wires.
(b) Wrap the twisted wire cable length around a ring mandrel to
the required finger size.
(c) Remove from the mandrel and un-twist each of the ends to about
2". Using your pliers, form tight spirals with the un-twisted ends ...

STEP 2

And there you have it! Simple coloured wire Twist Rings!

You can also create a good ring shank base, weaving 0.4mm
wire between 2 lengths of 0.8mm wire. You can use any weave you
like, as long as you're consistent throughout ...

If you like wire weaving, here's a good place to start, with this
SNAKE RING design:

STEP 1

Begin by cutting double the length of 0.8mm wire that you require,
and placing your round nosed pliers at the central point of the length,
pinch the wires together with the tips of your chain nosed pliers,
to form a circular link.

STEP 2

Try and get a grip on the end of the circular link and pinch,
to shape to a point (like a small leaf shape), forming the
snake's head.

STEP 3

Cut an arm's length of 0.4mm wire and begin your chosen weave,
leaving a tail of wire (which will come in useful later, in step 5,
when you secure the 'eye' bead in place).
I used an 'S' weave, doing 3 wraps on one wire, then over and
under (like an 'S') to the opposite side wire and repeating 3 more
wraps, etc..., etc...

STEP 4

Depending on the size of the 'snake' and your finger size,
you can carry on adding more 0.4mm weaving wire to
extend the length of the weave. Keep some of the 0.8mm
structural wire for the very end of the spiral 'tail'.

STEP 5

Thread an 'eye' bead on to the 'head' end and secure. Cut off
any excess 0.4mm wires at either end and neaten.

STEP 6

Place the strip of woven wire around a cylindrical mandrel to shape
and size.

STEP 7

To finish off the ends, you can either wrap one around the
other, cut off the excess and spiral the extended wire to cover
the cut end. Or, as below, spiral one end ...

STEP 8

... then wrap the other wire around the spiral and finish off with
a little coiled flourish, which can be flattened on top of the
initial spiral.

STEP 9

Place your ring back onto to the mandrel to resize, adjust and
re-shape. (I also like to bend the 'head' up a little.)

Make these any length
and size that you
wish and weave
in different colours!

Finally, for another quick make, here's a ring created with
just one length of 0.8mm wire. Simple, quick and effective
and I call this one, an ORBIT RING.

STEP 1

Cut an arm's length of 0.8mm wire. Wrap 3 times around
a circular mandrel to your required ring size. Use the
short end to bind the coils together, leaving the rest
extending straight out ...

STEP 2

If you wish to create it without a bead, start by making
a small spiral. Alternatively, (as shown above) you can
spiral around a bead.

STEP 3

Using the tips of your chain nosed pliers, form random, angular
bends in the wire, until it touches the shank. Flatten the bent
wire against the ring base and spend a little time rearranging it
to shape.

STEP 4

Place it back onto
the ring mandrel to
make any final
adjustments.

STEP 5

If you're worried about the wires lifting up with wear and
tear, you can always use some 0.4mm wire to bind in a
couple of places!

I hope that these techniques have given you a starting point
and triggered your creativity to have a play at making your
own unique designs for 2018 and years to come ...

May the Lord of the Rings be with you!!!

and remember ... creativity has no boundaries!

↧

SPIRAL HEARTS

January 31, 2018, 7:34 am

≫ Next: MOTHER'S DAY - TREE OF LIFE

≪ Previous: A FEAST of RINGS

As February is about to sprout! My mind is on HEARTS
for cards, jewellery, gifts and home decor.

The simple bracelet in the image above, comes from my
'Wire and Bead Celtic Jewellery' book (page 48-49) and
it's still a old favourite of mine!

For this Valentine themed blog, I will revisit and adapt
it to a necklace project and call it:
SPIRAL HEARTS NECKLACE
For this, you will need your usual set of pliers, cutters
(plus an optional, Whammer hammer and steel block).

As for materials: 0.5mm cotton cord, 0.8mm wire,
some beads (that can thread through the cord) and Superglue.

STEP 1

Cut 5 x 5" (12.5cm) lengths of 0.8mm wire and create medium
sized (if you have stepped round nosed pliers), circular links
at each end. Spiral the ends in towards each other on each
side, leaving about 1/2" (1cm) uncurled, at the centre of the wire.

STEP 2

Place the tips of your round nosed pliers at the centre of
the uncurled wire and using your fingers, push both spiral
ends in towards each other ...

STEP 3

To create a 'pointy' end to the heart, push the spirals together,
until they sit one on top of the other. Then, using the tips of
your flat nosed pliers, gently pinch the rounded tip to form a
point.

STEP 4

Spread the spirals apart and re-adjust, so that they sit side-by-side,
touching at the top, forming a spiral heart frame.

STEP 5

Once you've created all 5 (or more, if you want a longer necklace!),
gently stroke hammer the spirals and sides on a steel block to work
harden. (Avoid hitting the pointed tip, as it will spread and widen).

STEP 6

Create an
even coil
of wire
(that fits a
doubled
length of
cord.)
Just like
making
jump-rings.

STEP 7

Cut a length of 0.5mm cord that is approx. 3 times longer
than the necklace. Thread the coil onto the cord and
double the cord back through, leaving a loop at the end.
Use the tips of your chain nosed pliers to 'crimp' and tighten
the very last link at each end of the coil, ensuring that it's
secure on the doubled cord.

STEP 8

(Even though I didn't, you can begin by making a knot
on the doubled cord, just by the wire coil.) Next, thread
a bead onto ONE of the cords. Create a knot with both
cords, sliding it right up to the side of the bead to
secure it in place.

STEP 9

Thread both ends of the cord through one of the spirals
at the top of the heart and back through the other side ...

STEP 10

Create a knot using both cords and slide it just by the
side of the heart spiral frame ...

STEP 11

Continue alternating the beads, knots and heart frames
until you've achieved the right length for your necklace,
or bracelet.

STEP 12

Make a knot, close up to the last bead and cut off
just ONE of the cord ends. (For extra security, you can
add a dab of Superglue on the cut end and knot).

STEP 13

Create a second wire coil (as in Step 6) and thread this
on to the projecting cord. Double the cord back through
the coil to form a second looped end.

STEP 14

Cut off any excess cord and pinch the last ring of the coil
tightly around the cord to secure. For extra safety, add a
small dab of Superglue at each end of each coil, where it
has been crimped and pinched around the cord.

STEP 15

If it's the correct overall length, all you have to do is add
a clasp. Otherwise, you could add chain, or cord (as I have
done) to lengthen.

Matching earrings, can be created in a similar way. As above,
you can choose to attach a bead into the centre of the heart
frame with some 0.4mm wire. Cut and neaten the ends.

To add more colour to your necklace, you could also
add beads to all of the heart frames. I have only chosen
to add one to the central unit.

Using this technique, you can create a varied range of
simple heart-shaped pendants ...

... using different coloured wires and beads. It also works
well for wedding designs.

Sending VALENTINE GREETINGS
to everyone who LOVES TO play
with wire! XXX

↧

MOTHER'S DAY - TREE OF LIFE

March 6, 2018, 2:09 am

≫ Next: BIRD'S NEST

≪ Previous: SPIRAL HEARTS

I can't believe this year has already jumped to the month of March!
At least the weather is improving and there are lots of things to look
forward to ...

I will be back on CREATE and CRAFT TV for a monthly show,
sponsored by BEADS DIRECT.
(SKY 674 - FREEVIEW 23 - VIRGIN 748 - FREESAT 813)
You can watch online too! My first show, should go out on
Wednesday 21st March at 9am (UK time). I will keep you posted
on my Facebook page and on this blog, as I work through the
project themes and designs ...

But firstly, it's Mother's Day on Sunday and if you're struggling
to know what to make, here's an idea to inspire you:
TREE of LIFE Pendant Tutorial! This is such a classic, symbolic
design and can be put on a card, hung as a necklace, or suspended
as a handbag charm, or end of a bookmark ...

The 'Tree of Life' has such a long history, crossing many cultures.
The Celtic people, who had a very strong links to nature, had
spiritual and sacred connections to trees. It has become a symbol
of rebirth, fresh start in life, positive energy, good health and a bright
future! As a symbol, it means 'you are not an island', but are deeply
connected to the world around and dependent on it for your ability
to grow.

As a Mother's Day gift it works well, as it also has a connection to
family and ancestors. Symbolizing the generations of your family,
the continuity through ever expanding branches of parents, grand-
parents to our children and our children's children. With its roots
buried deep in the soil, acknowledging and accepting nourishment
from Mother Earth. To the leaves and branches extending to the
sky, accepting energy and growth from the Sun. To the scattering
of it's seeds, symbolizing rebirth and regrowth ...

So, with all that waffle aside, let's get making! There are many versions
of this design and this is my own, simplified, freestyle adaptation!

You will need 1mm wire for the circular frame, 0.4mm wire for the
tree and any small beads, crystals or semi-precious chips you have to
hand. I chose my own Mother's birthstone colours (Green for her
August birthday) and you could do the same. (P.S. If you require a Birthstone
Chart, just email me: linda.jones@wirejewellery.co.uk and I will deliver).

STEP 1

Decide on the size of your circular frame, and find something
cylindrical to wrap your 1mm wire around. Cut from the spool
with the wires overlapping. (I used a 1.5"mandrel, but don't forget,
whatever you wrap around, the circle will end up a little larger, as the wire will
spring open as you remove it!).

STEP 2

Using the tips of your round nosed pliers, create a small
link at one end.

STEP 3

Twist the link, so that it sits at right angles to your circle,
and thread the opposite end through the link.

STEP 4

Using the tips of your chain nosed pliers, bend the wire
straight up from the link ...

STEP 5

Depending on how much wire is protruding, create a suspension
link with it, using your round nosed pliers, or bail making pliers at
the top of the circle.

STEP 6

To create the 'tree': cut about 16 lengths of 0.4mm wire. I cut
them at least 2" longer than my circular frame diameter and here
I have used 8 x gold and 8 x silver, but ANY colour will do!

STEP 7

Halve the thin wires in 2 different piles and using your fingers,
twist them together at the centre for about 1".

STEP 8

At one end of the central twisted stem, separate out, three
portions of the wires. (I don't bother with even portions, as I want my
tree to look irregular and natural).

STEP 9

Using your round nosed pliers, create some curvy bends in
the central twisted stem.

STEP 10

Separate and twist some branches out, and thread with your chosen
beads, attaching and anchoring the wire around the top of the frame.
Cut off any excess wire. (I usually start in the middle and work out on each side,
so as to centralize my tree within the framework space).

STEP 11

Keep twisting, shaping and threading beads on all your branches
anchoring the ends of the wires to the top outer edge of the frame.
Bring the opposite 'root' end wires down the centre and twist until
it reaches the bottom edge of the frame.

STEP 12

Wrap the twisted 'root' wires twice around the base of the
frame to secure the tree in place.

STEP 13

Wrap to secure and cut off many of the extending wires at the
base of the frame, leaving around 8, projecting out. (Neaten the
ends, making sure that there are no spikes sticking out!).

STEP 14

Create small tight spirals with the extending wires, flattening them
over the base of the frame, hiding the cut wires beneath.

STEP 15

And there you have it! A Tree Pendant!

That's MY version, but you'll find much more inspiration and
different techniques online ... However, I do hope that this
project has sparked your inner creativity and you're eager to play!

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY
to ALL the wonderful Mum's around the world!

↧

BIRD'S NEST

March 24, 2018, 9:58 am

≫ Next: PERSONAL JEWELLERY STYLING

≪ Previous: MOTHER'S DAY - TREE OF LIFE

We've been told that Spring has sprung ...
(just after the snow!) and with Easter just
around the corner, I thought a nest of eggs
could be a possible theme ...

Not only that, it's a quick easy make and if
you have young children, nieces, nephews or
grandchildren, you could even get them involved!

For this, you will need: 3 'egg' beads (pearls
work well, but anything will do!), plus 0.4mm
wire (26 or 28 gauge) and your usual pliers:
round, chain and flat nosed and your wire cutters.

STEP 1

Cut about 1 meter of wire and thread with the 3 'egg' beads.
Position the beads together on the wire, with about 2"(5cm)
projecting at one end.

STEP 2

Bring the beads tightly together and twist the wires
where they meet.

STEP 3

Use the tips of your round nosed pliers to create random kinks
and crinkles on the longer projecting length. (You only need to
do this about 8" (20cm) along to begin with).

STEP 4

Wrap the crinkly wire around the 3 beads, squeezing
and molding it with your fingers as you go. Take the
shorter projecting end and use this to 'stitch' around
the wires, to hold them in place.

STEP 5

Create more random crinkles and kinks in the
rest of the wire length ...

STEP 6

Bind the rest of the crinkly wire around the beads,
building it up around sides. Use some of it to 'stitch'
around the nest to hold the framework together and
across the back of the nest.

STEP 7

If the back of the nest looks a bit bald, cut another length
of wire and weave across the back.
Once you're satisfied with the overall appearance, attach
a jump ring into the the top of the nest, plus a small bail
link, to suspend off a cord or chain.

Alternatively, you can secure the nest onto a wire ring
shank.

Have fun making your own versions!

The nests can look great attached to the front of an Easter Card
and on the inside, you can make a chick design using this
EASTER CHICK CARDtechnique!

↧

PERSONAL JEWELLERY STYLING

April 4, 2018, 1:08 pm

≫ Next: GO WITH THE FLOW

≪ Previous: BIRD'S NEST

Welcome to April! This is going to be a busy month
for me, with lots of workshops to run, plus the wonderful
BIG BEAD SHOW at Sandown Park on Saturday 21st,
which is a must for bead addicts in the South East of
England and anyone who can travel to it!

Also, I'll be designing new kits and demonstrating on
CREATE and CRAFT TV on Thursday 26th at 5pm
with some beautiful BEADS DIRECT materials!

So, instead of a tutorial, I thought I would write about
PERSONAL JEWELLERY STYLING
(with lots of wire jewellery inspiration thrown in!).

Firstly, I will start with a disclaimer ... what I'm about
to say, is definitely not 'set in stone', but merely a guide
to help the decision and designing process! My advice
is to always wear what YOU feel comfortable and happy in!

Jewellery should be a reflection of your personality and
should instantly make a statement about you! (Having
said that, pearls and diamonds generally do suit all women!).

Accessorizing with handmade, wire jewellery is a great
way to not only show off your skills, but your individuality!
It's amazing how it can enhance your appearance and
flatter you when you know how ...

Body type, facial structure, eye and hair colour, length
and cut of hair, as well as clothing, obviously also play a
vital role! When I'm designing wedding tiaras, hair accessories
and jewellery, I often start by looking at the facial shape
of my client. With special occasion pieces, the 'red carpet'
rule, is simply to make sure to wear only ONE dominant
piece - if your earrings are big and bold, keep your necklace
simple, or visa versa!

An oval face is ideal for most types of jewellery because it's
symmetrical. However, I would avoid short, chunky large bead
choker necklaces near a very round face, or even large hoop
earrings.

Large circular earrings

Dangly Lapis Lazuli Earrings

Instead, I would opt for longer necklaces, layered and teardrop shapes,
or tapering cascade earrings to elongate the face (just as, vertical striped
clothing is more flattering than horizontal on a larger framed person).

Heart-shaped faces look best with earrings that are wider at the base,
to balance a narrow chin, such as teardrop or chandelier shapes.

Circular and short drop earrings work well on oblong thin faces,
appearing to create a fuller effect and can also make square
faces appear less angular.

Skin colour and tone also plays a significant role, as warm/yellow
tones look great in gold, pewter, copper and earth tone gems and
beads.

A cool pinkinsh skin tone is better with silver, accented
with beads or gemstones in pink, purple, green, blue ...

Whilst darker toned skin, goes with every metal and all
bright colours!

One of the most important aspects for choosing or designing
jewellery, is that it creates a pleasing sense of visual balance
when worn. For a generous figure, smaller pieces can get
lost, or make the body appear larger. For example, small stud
earrings on large frame will not be as flattering as an elegant
drop bead. It's all about proportion!

The opposite is the same. As large, clunky pieces can overpower
a petite frame, or even wearing too much jewellery can over-
whelm it! Therefore, a small frame looks more balanced with
thinner chains, or stacked pieces. 2 or 3 strands look less heavy than
one.

I'm definitely not advocating this as a 'black and white' rule,
as big, bold jewels worn correctly, can look absolutely stunning
on a small frame, if the personality can carry it off!

Remember to accentuate positive physical features, for
example, statement rings will draw attention to beautiful
manicured nails.

A short neck can look longer with dangly earrings (although
they should not hang past the shoulders!) and long necklaces
will draw the eye downward, elongating the neckline.

By concentrating on your assets, you'll draw attention away from
other parts you don't like!

We are visual animals, so if you're feeling a bit lack lustre after
an illness, overwork (or possibly the U.K. winter!), wearing a
statement piece, a dash of positive colour, a design that reflects
your personality (especially if you have created it yourself!),
will act as a powerful tonic for the day!

Ultimately, it's about wearing what YOU feel comfortable in,
and if you know what flatters you in Style, Shape and Colour ...
that can only be a bonus!

Remember, jewellery is wearable art ... express yourself!
So, go on! Brighten up your day (and everyone else's), by wearing some
handmade WIRE JEWELLERY!

↧

GO WITH THE FLOW

April 29, 2018, 5:14 am

≫ Next: NUCLEUS NECKLACE

≪ Previous: PERSONAL JEWELLERY STYLING

This 'go with the flow of wire' design is an old favourite in my
repertoire! I often dip back to this technique when I have a
creative block and need to restore my mojo, or when I
want to teach a student how to 'feel' the freedom of letting the
wire flow in a continuous movement, without having to plan,
or get bogged down with structure and perfect shaping.

The starting point is usually colour. One focal bead can be your
muse. Or, look into your wardrobe and chose a fabric that inspires
a pleasant, tonal colour selection.

The shirt fabric above, was my inspiration for this
necklace. I used the tones of the green and purples
to pick my bead selection and knew, that that palette
and combination of colours would work well together
again, as it had already blended beautifully in the shirt!

Colour palettes and blends can be found everywhere!
Look at wall and wrapping paper, paintings, curtains,
carpet designs, packaging ... etc... We are surrounded
by colourful images, so you don't have to be a great
designer, or colour theorist to create harmonious, tonal
palette blends of beads!

The starting point with the necklace (above) was the large green
jade bead and the orange complimentary colour beads were added
to help boost and enhance the green tone of this feature bead.

Of course, you can play safe and use monochromatic blends
of beads together. For this, if you're making an asymmetric design,
it's important to counteract the balance of the large bead on one side
with a brighter, bead on the other, as shown above.

So, let's get started! It's a great exercise for understanding 'balance'
(proportion of shape and colour) in good design. It's also great for
using up spare beads and it never fails to re-ignite a flagging mojo
pilot-light!

STEP 1

My starting point for my colour palette for this tutorial, was
the large rectangular bead that was abstractly patterned with
silver and gold. From there, I picked out a blend of other
beads from my stash, that toned well with that focal bead.

STEP 2

Next, I cut about 10" (25.5cm) of 1.5mm silver coloured
aluminium wire and began by spiralling each of the ends
in towards each other, until I was left with approx. 5" (12.5cm)
of straight wire at the centre.

STEP 3

I then, curved my wire (into a smile shape!) and hammered the
centre to work-harden it, leaving the spirals untouched on either
side.

STEP 4

Using 0.4mm binding wire I began attaching my beads, starting
with the large focal bead and balancing out the colours on
each side. Any excess binding wire was cut off off and the ends
were neatened.

STEP 5

As you can see on the left,
my photo of my wire wrapping
is not very clear! However,
I can describe what I did
and all I can say, is that you
must just:
'Go With The Flow' of the
wire! Let it dictate the
design ...

Here are my tips to help with the free-flow:
A. Cut a generous amount of wrapping wire. I used about 1 metre
of 1.5mm aluminium. If you don't have chunky aluminium wire,
you can use 0.8mm gauge doubled up (so, 2 metres folded in half).
B.Start by wrapping the centre of the wire around the centre of your
base frame. Therefore, attach to either side of the large, rectangular
focal bead. Then wrap the wire around the perimeter of each of the
beads in turn (creating a fake setting or frame), use one end of the
wire for one side of the necklace and the other end for the opposite
side. This helps to avoid creating a lopsided piece.
C. If you run out of wire on either side, you can cut more wire and
secure to the base, leaving a tail end, which can be spiralled and
flattened, creating an additional decorative detail.
D. Once you've completed wrapping the wire around the base
and each of the beads in turn and IF it still looks out of balance, you
can always wire in and integrate more small beads with 0.4mm wire
to add additional colour and impact.

Basically, anything goes!

STEP 6

IF any of your surrounding 'halo' wires are too loosely wrapped
around any of your beads (and I did this deliberately to my large
focal bead to create a more eye-catching centrepiece), you can use
the tips of your chain-nosed pliers to tweak and twist kinks in the
wire. Adding more interest and shape to the overall design.

STEP 7

These protruding kinked ends can be hammered on the edge of
a steel bench block to flatten, harden and spread. Plus, they can be
textured with a ball-pein hammer, or the dapping head of the
Whammer hammer!

STEP 8

Connect a ready made chain to each side of the beaded centrepiece,
or, make your own figure of '8' (infinity) links to create a handmade
chain.

STEP 9

Finally, connect your chain links with jump rings to create
the sides of the necklace to the length desired and your
"Go With the Flow" necklace is now ready to wear!

This technique also works well for Bangles! You can use
1mm or 1.25mm wire as the base frame to wire your
bead selection onto and use doubled 0.8mm gauge wire to
free-flow around the beads and bangle base.

The 1.5mm aluminium wire provides a chunky, statement
piece, however, if you want to create a more refined look,
you can twist together 3 or 4 lengths of 0.8mm (20-gauge)
wire to make the base of your necklace and wire wrap with
doubled 0.8mm wire. There are NO rules to free-styling!

You can also use coloured wires to generate more impactful
vibrancy to your designs!

There's just one last word of WARNING ... it's very addictive!
So don't tell me I didn't warn you! So, get your bead stash out
and those wires and pliers and DARE to ...
'GO WITH THE FLOW'!

↧

NUCLEUS NECKLACE

May 27, 2018, 3:40 am

≫ Next: BEACHY JEWELLERY

≪ Previous: GO WITH THE FLOW

The month of May has almost vanished and
we can now look forward to June and the
warmth of summer ahead ...

Bold, simple statement pieces are ideal to
jazz up a T-shirt, blouse or summer dress
and I think, this NUCLEUS NECKLACE
hits just the hot spot!

All you will need, is a flat back cabochon,
button, or flat bead. If it's large, use 1.5mm
aluminium wire to frame it and if it's small,
0.8mm wire will do.

Here's one version to show you the basic technique,
but, have fun experimenting with your own variations!

STEP 1

Working from a spool of wire, begin by creating a flat spiral
of wire that is the same diameter as your flat back 'stone'. Cut
the wire from the spool, leaving a long tail of about 1ft (30cm)
projecting (for smaller 'stones' leave less). Glue the 'stone' to the
spiral base - I used E6000 glue - and left it to set ...

STEP 2

Once the 'stone' is firmly glued onto the spiral base, initially,
wrap the projecting wire around the perimeter of the 'stone',
creating a fake setting. After, that ... you can do what you want!
I have created an open spiral (as above), but you can make any
nucleus shaped frame around it!

STEP 3

Use round nosed, or bail maker pliers to create a circular, suspension
link at the end of the wire.

STEP 4

To work harden the outer wire frame, stroke hammer on a steel
block, being careful to avoid the 'stone'. And as above, you
can add texture to the flattened wire, using the 'dapping' head
of the Whammer hammer.

STEP 5

This is completely optional, but if you feel your
outer frame needs reinforcing, weave a little 0.4mm
(28-gauge) wire around the perimeter ...

STEP 6

This is also optional, but for extra interest and decoration,
you can 'tweak' the woven wires, with a little twist from the tips
of your chain nosed pliers.

STEP 7 - THE TOP HANGER

Cut approx. 5"(12.5cm) of 1.5mm aluminium wire
and fold in half, around your round nosed, or bail
making pliers. (This amount will vary for smaller
'stones').

STEP 8

Initially, create tiny (squidged) circles at the ends of the
wire, facing inwards, towards each other. Then, place
your round nosed or bail making pliers just next to the
small, squidged circles and form, outward facing loops
on each side (it's similar to making 2 'fish hook' clasps!)

STEP 9

Spend a little time adjusting and shaping the unit, until you
have the looped sides at a more horizontal plane to the
central circle.

STEP 10

If desired, you can wire in a bead on each side, using 0.4mm
wire, before connecting to the the top link of your pendant.

STEP 11

To create the sides of the necklace, attach a jump ring and
secure some beading filament with a crimp to the each side
of your top hanger.

STEP 12

I added 2 side cords, each threaded with matching seed beads.
Then I added one larger bead, plus crimp and cut off one of the
cords, so that I could be left with one cord end.

STEP 13

With just one more bead and crimp, I formed a small loop
at the end, ready to attach my chain extension.

STEP 14

And there you have it! Connect a chain to each side, to the
length desired, plus clasp and your Nucleus Necklace
is ready for the cat-walk!

To show you just how variable this Nucleus Necklace design
can be, here's how I shaped the wire with some other pieces:

And this is how they eventually turned out!

So, I do hope you have just as much fun as I had playing
with this design technique!

HAPPY WIREWORKING!

↧

BEACHY JEWELLERY

June 28, 2018, 6:48 am

≫ Next: Summer Butterfly

≪ Previous: NUCLEUS NECKLACE

Having just finished my 'Art in June' summer show,
where I mainly sell my metalwork designs:

... I'm now back in my studio running workshops and
designing with wire again!

And whilst the summer sun is shinning and the breeze
of the seaside, the sand between our toes and melting
ice cream is in our sights ... I thought I would share a
a recent project I designed with BEADS DIRECT
materials.

Experiment with different shaped wire frames and
colour combinations to create a range of stunning
summer jewellery!

Using this technique, these are currently my favourite
beach-ready earring designs:

They can be created in any shade you fancy!

And can be made to match any of your summer dresses!

I will be back in July for more wire inspiration ...
so until then, enjoy this technique and design idea!

HAPPY WIRE WORKING!

↧